Il cammino di Santiago: “La mia esperienza di giovane donna sola”

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Vesciche su tutte le dita, infezione sulla pianta del piede e crampi lancinanti ai polpacci. Questo è quello che succede se non si scelgono bene le scarpe per il Cammino di Santiago e se si decide di camminare e camminare comunque ogni giorno senza ascoltare il proprio corpo.

733 Km in 30 giorni, uno zaino in spalla di 10 kg, scarpe sbagliate e incontri magici. Così si potrebbe riassumere la mia esperienza da pellegrina trentenne del Cammino di Santiago. Ma c’è ben altro da dire sul Cammino dei cammini, un lungo viaggio che parte da Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in Francia, attraversa Aragona, Navarra, Castilla e León, per arrivare in Galizia, davanti la cattedrale di Santiago di Compostela per ritirare la tanto meritata Compostelana.

La prova più dura del Cammino di Santiago

Camminare e macinare chilometri è l’imperativo del pellegrino. Non appena si inizia, le persone diventano pellegrini e camminare diventa legge non scritta, la dimostrazione di forza fisica e tenacia mentale che ogni pellegrino ha promesso a se stesso. Da buona pellegrina non mi sono tirata indietro e ho iniziato a camminare, avendo ben in mente che ogni giorno avrei dovuto fare dai 25 ai 35 chilometri, forse qualcuno in più ma mai di meno.

Le prime due settimane di cammino, sono state estremamente fisiche, tutta la mia attenzione era concentrata sulle mie gambe e sui miei piedi. Il mio viaggio è iniziato il 21 giugno sotto il sole cocente di una Pamplona che si prepara alla corsa dei tori e alla celebrazione di San Fermín. Ho attraversato Navarra e La Rioja per poi entrare nelle Mesetas di Castilla e León. Las Mesetas sono il mostro del cammino, il banco di prova dei pellegrini, anche se spaventati o forse annoiati molti decidono di bypassarle e prendere un taxi per arrivare a León. Le Mesetas sono “distese sconfinate di nulla” come le chiama qualcuno, ma c’è anche chi dice che siano “distese sconfinate di tutto”, il luogo in cui si torna all’essenziale e molti pellegrini hanno avuto la loro illuminazione. I piedi ardono, il panorama di campi di grano e cielo azzurro, l’assenza di ombra per chilometri e chilometri mettono a dura prova la mente e la sete. In gran parte delle Mesetas cammino da sola, faccia a faccia con me stessa e l’infinito fuori e dentro. Ho i piedi distrutti, il corpo bruciato dal sole nonostante la crema, la stanchezza mi assale. Ma ce l’ho fatta! Ho superato le Mesetas, anche grazie alla buona compagnia dei pellegrini-amici con cui ho condiviso qualche chilometro, il sole, il cibo e le lunghe soste alle poche fontane incontrate. Pensavo che il difficile fosse passato: era arrivata a León.

La decisione più difficile

La mattina ero in partenza e sento il mio corpo cedere lentamente, i piedi risentono dei chilometri percorsi sotto il sole dentro la morsa delle scarpe da trekking e le vesciche riempiono ormai tutte le dita. Un dolore lancinante alle gambe le fa tremare, ma niente da fare, sono una pellegrina, devo continuare. Cammino per 5 km e le vesciche si rompono e si aprono, il dolore diventa sempre più forte, ma penso “posso farcela, la prossima tappa è a soli 25 km”. Proseguo per altri 5 km e i crampi non mi lasciano andare, mi scende una lacrima nel bel mezzo della strada. Così prendo la decisione più difficile del cammino: fermarmi. Prendo la svolta a destra e arrivo ad un albergue donativo con un giardino enorme. Lascio cadere lo zaino, mi tolgo le scarpe e il calzini. Mi stendo sul prato, il sole mi bacia, le lacrime cadono, respiro.

Due lezioni del Cammino: camminare e fermarsi

Quando ho iniziato il Cammino, l’obiettivo era camminare, senza “arrendermi” mai. Durante il Cammino, camminare diventa un esercizio alla vita, scopri una nuova profondità che parte dalla superficie di una strada. Comprendi di essere in transito, in costante movimento su questa Terra. Il passo diventa il metro di misura dei pensieri, della condivisione e dell’incontro con l’altro e con se stessi. Nel cammino, ognuno scopre la lunghezza e il ritmo del proprio passo. Tuttavia, la vera prova del Cammino non è camminare fino allo sfinimento, bensì fermarsi, ascoltare il proprio corpo, le proprie emozioni, non essere schiavi dell’ “arrivare”, del “dimostrare”. Essere testimoni in ascolto di ciò che sentiamo.

Cosa ho imparato

Oltre ad essere stato uno dei momenti più difficili del Cammino, per me è stato uno dei grandi suoi insegnamenti. Una piccola rivoluzione intima e universale. Celebrare il mio cammino con una sosta, non a caso “sostare” mi ricorda “io so stare”, mi prendo un tempo per stare con me stessa. Ho sentito forte e chiaro il mio essere figlia di questa società che ci vuole in una costante corsa e fermarmi, ha significato non consumarmi. Che sia perché il corpo ce lo chiede, che sia per un tramonto o un amico pellegrino, per un’alba o una buona cerveza, fermarsi è un atto di gratitudine al cammino e alla vita.

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